So we finally broke from the shackles, slash blessings, of Bob Perry designed yachts and purchased a 1985 Pearson 36-2 sailboat from the design table of William Shaw. Last summer a boat at our marina came up for sale that was simply too irresistible to decline. If anyone knows anything about me and my taste in yachts, you know that I have been extolling the virtues of Robert Perry for a very long time. So it is with no small measure that I (we) have stepped outside our pre-defined norms and considered another yacht design for our new boat de jour.
Hereto follows my considered opinion and initial impressions of the Pearson 36-2 sloop rigged sailing craft manufactured between 1985 and 1990 by Pearson Yachts.
Our sailboat is hull number 17 built in 1985, which is an interesting or maybe not so interesting to anyone but me depending on you inclinations, the day and year of our son’s birth. This was early in the production run of this fine vessel.
My first impression upon viewing the Pearson 36-2, was one of awe. She is a fine looking sailboat from any angle. This can not be said of many sailboats today. She has a pretty springline moving aft to fore and an attractive stern, slash booty. Her bow has a bow angle typical of the mid 80’s which I find to be easier on the eye than today’s straight bow angles. She has a full-length toe rail of teak, which is beautiful to look at. Less so to maintain, and even less desirable to replace. Fortunately, ours is in very good shape. One of the few benefits of living in the northern latitudes I suppose.
On deck, there are no less than nine ventilation points, consisting of four opening hatches and one cowl vent with dorade box and eight portlights. The sails are raised from the mast, with winches starboard and port. Ours has been updated with a furling unit built by Harken and sold by North Sails. It is a quality piece of equipment and works without complaint. Our previous boat had the main halyard running to the cockpit, so raising the main sail from the mast has taken some adjustment on my part. In the past I could run the tiller while raising the main sail at the same time. Now if I am sailing shorthanded, I must engage the auto-pilot to raise the main sail. Not a big issue to be sure.
The anchor locker is of ample size to stow the ground tackle and Danforth style anchor with ease. We have 200′ of three-strand and 25′ of chain making up our anchoring system. We did change out the Danforth for a Bruce style anchor, which hangs from the bow roller perfectly. We’ll keep the Danforth for a stern anchor or emergency storm anchor to be used in conjunction with the Bruce.
Not a Bruce style anchor, but you get the idea.
The cockpit is large and very comfortable for a minimum of six persons. The seat back angles are nice on the old back and my favorite way to sit is with my back up against the bulkhead facing aft. The destroyer style steering wheel is large and requires one to climb up and around to move past it. However, when sitting to leeward, the extra diameter of the wheel makes for easy steering and a comfortable position to enjoy the sail.
There are two cockpit drains aft and a confidence building bridge-deck to keep any boarding seas from flowing down the companion way. The companion way is much smaller than the one on our previous sailboat, an Islander 28. It is still easy to negotiate and in someways easier to exit without having to remove the hatch boards. Currently, we do not have a dodger installed, so this may change once that happens. We are still debating whether or not to have one built. The design of the companion way is such that simply sliding the top closed keeps most rain out of the cabin.
There is no split back stay which makes using the stern ladder much easier than our last boat. On the downside, it was nice to be able to tension the backstay to help get perfect sail shape up front. There is a nice drop ladder with teak steps in which to climb back aboard, either from a refreshing swim or returning to home-base from a trip in the dingy. As an aside, we have found it easier on our last two boats to climb aboard from the side rather than the stern. I made a one-step ladder which can be hung from the side to help make things a little easier.
Moving down below, we find an extraordinarily comfortable living space. We were completely blown away when we first saw her. Our first impression was holy smokes, look at all this room!
Pearson 36-2 Review, to be continued…
Please come back soon to read the rest of the review! I hope to update this shortly after spring commissioning.
Can’t wait to read part two. Very nice boat !
Hi Robert, Thanks! I plan on working on Part Two after our boat is back in the water sometime in May.
Hi Eric, the Pearson 36-2 has made my list of cruising boats to consider for purchase. Upgrading from our P-26. Was wondering how your season went and whether you still recommend the P36-2. Other boat on the short list is Canadian Sailcraft 36T. Thanks in advance Mike Warburton
Hi Michael, Our Pearson 36-2 has exceeded every expectation we had! She is super responsive under sail, she is a fast boat and points very close. We can sail at speed, at 30 degrees apparent with the sails trimmed tight. We do have new sails, so I’m sure that helps. Under motor, she backs out of slip like a car. My wife does the docking for us and she loves how it handles. We love the interior as well, laid out nice, lots of room. My only complaint would be the amount of storage in the galley. Only two very small drawers. There are sliding cabinets and storage above though. I really can’t say enough about how much we enjoy the Pearson 36-2! I’m not familiar with Sailcraft 36T, so I can’t comment on that. Good luck with your search!
Thanks for the reply Eric. Your comments about ease of handling under power (backs out like a car, my wife does the docking ) are exactly what my lovely bride needed to hear….checks in the mail. Still haven’t purchased but with winter setting in the shopping season/boat yard stalking has started. Will let you kbow when the deal is dine
I have a 1985 36-2 that I purchased in the spring of 2013. Since then I have undertake a fairly major refit of the boat and have used it fairly extensively on Lake Erie. I agree – it’s a great boat. I would be happy to share pics and details of what I have done is you are interested.
Hi Tom, Yes, I would love to see what you have done on your sailboat! I’ll send you a pm, if that’s OK. What hull number is yours? Ours is hull number 17.
Mine is hull #54. Send me your email address and I will forward some pics and details of projects. I’ve done a lot, including blister repair and epoxy bottom, new port lights, new stainless hand rails, toe rail replacement and installation of more track along toe rail, rebedding of all deck hardware along with replacing balsa core with epoxy at each penetration, new pedastal and electronics, new cabin sole, several modifications in the cabin to pick up storage…… and the list goes on and on.
Hi, My wife Kathryn and I just purchased a 1985 36-2, coming from
a 1985 C&C Mk3 and would love to see some pictures. We love the
layout and room. Our sea trial is on saturday, so we hope she sails as good as you guys say. We are abit soiled by our C&C but our new boat has the center board version so we are exited about that. We sail in Georgian Bay and the North Channel so it can be
tricky at times. Thanks
Just purchased a pearsaon 36-2, 1990. Taking possession of it this Saturday 7/21/18. Sailing her from Mystic Ct to Wickford RI on Narragansett Bay. Will follow up in a week or so. Looking forward to implementing some of your ideas. I do want to install a windless and davits. Dog house portals are crazed and will be replaced.
Hello! I have a 1972 Pearson 33 and I absolutely love her, I’m a full time liveaboard and it’s plenty of space for one person. I have had no complaints in the year I’ve been aboard, she’s beyond sturdy and even has a cozy wood burning fireplace on board! I do plan on upgrading to a larger vessel someday but I feel it will be very difficult to let this one go.
Hi. My wife and I own hull 114. Tiverton RI. Can be raced and we have down well. Moderate to heavy air is stiff, close winded, and fast. Boat will be in yacht condition this year and a fall cruise to North Carolina is planned and maybe Florida. Our 8th boat and by far the best. One was a C&C 40.
Hi Tom Wyenne, we have hull number 14 and would love to see pictures of your
work.
Thanks
Hi Tom, we have hull number 14 and would love to see some pictures of your work
Thanks
Harald
Harald – if you click on the “projects” tab, you will see a drop down with links to write ups with photos of many of the projects. There are others that I haven’t written up yet. As an example, the boat is currently separated from the keel for rebedding. That is the big project for this winter layup.
Nice to read all these posts about the Pearson 36-2. I have a 1987, hull #141 that we bought new. It has sailed extensively all over the east coast and Caribbean, and has held up well thoughout – even while in a charter fleet a few years in the 90’s. Unfortunately, she was out of the water for several years recently without much TLC so she showed the neglect.
I am now in the middle of a major refit, hoping to nurse her back to her original glory. I just finished replacing all 11 portlights with Lewmars. I strongly considered the NFM discussed above, but in the end the cost (given everything else I’m doing) forced me to the Lewmars. I still have to replace the two angled lights, as the new replacements dont fit exactly and will require a little glass work.
I removed much of the teak interior and am replacing/refinishing those pieces.
I came across a brand new (002 engine hours) Yanmar 3HM35F, so rather than rebuild our engine with 5000+ hours I’m replacing it, which gave me the excuse to completely powerclean the entire bilge area. In that process I decided to replace some of the wiring laid through the bilge as much of the sheathing was deteriorated or just plain messy.
I’m also rebuilding the galley area and replacing the laminate top with Corion. Any one have any idea what the black coating on the underside of the stainless steel sink is? I imagine it might be for heat protection from engine. I managed to remove it all, it peeled off relatively easily with help of a razor. Now I’m wondering if I need to replace it with new paint or just leave it bare.
Also – any ideas about replacing the electrical panel? I’m considering using a Blue Sea Marine combined AC/DC panel with 6 AC and 19 AC breakers. The old Nova panel needs replacement and just looks a little too tired.
I have thousands of questions but am having good fun draining my wallet in this endeavor!
Hi, We have the center board model and hope somebody has information about the
maintenance on the cables etc.
Hi Paul Hankins, I replaced my panel with 3/4 inch starboard and had paneltronics in Florida make a new panel for 12 and 110. Very nice and less than blue sea.
Ahoy, I am looking at a ’88 36-2 with centerboard. Would love to hear about experiences with the CB. I am looking to buoy race and cruise with the boat in Lake Michigan. And if this isn’t a good forum, can you point me to one that is? Thanks in advance!
Hi we have a 1985 Pearson 36.2, hull # 14 and love it. We also have a centre board and would love to know if anybody has an idea how to service it. We are sailing from Georgian bay/ Lake Huron, to Newfoundland and would like to make sure about the maintanance
Hi,
I am refitting a P36-2 hull #59. I have to change the rigging and am surprised because the backtay is in 10mm while 8 mm is more common for this size of vessel. It would be helpfull if anyone could tell me what cable size they have for the stay and backstay for a P36 ? Thanks and stay safe. Marc
Hi Marc, sorry but actualy I don’t know the size of the
Back stay and cannot go
To the boat right now. Does your boat have a
Boom vang?
I
Harald
I replaced my backstay and turnbuckle recently. I used 7/16ths wire.
Tom,
Thanks for your feedback.
Harald
I do not have a boom vang
Marc
Since writing up the projects that we posted here I haven’t really looked back at them. I just took a few minutes to scan through them and noticed that at the end of the writeups, people have posted various questions that I never responded to. Sorry for that – I never saw the comments/questions. Most are old and I suspect that the problems have already been addressed. I guess that this comment section (as opposed to the sections under each individual project) is probably the best place to exchange ideas and make inquiries.
I just bought a Pearson 36-2 1986 with a 2009 Yanmar engine. I know it’s not practical to buy a boat that old, but I am in love with old designs. Why does everything have to go faster? I looked at probably 50 boats, many of which I described as “plasticky” which my broker bristled at (speed and loud music sailor, but knows literally everything), but you always find someone who shares your opinion or disagrees strongly. I believe I will always be buying old boats but hope to have more $ in the future. I’m a single woman who plans to live aboard year-round in Boston. I’ve sailed a lot in my life, but mostly as a dock hopping jib wench for my father and a professor I raced with 25 years ago. I spent 8 days on a 33 foot Hunter last summer, took ASA 101, 103, and 104, in the Bahamas and am enraptured by sailing. My last day was in gale force winds and 12 foot rolling swells. Everyone was sick and I was truly having the time of my life. I’m 50, and that’s the best day … So, have to live on a boat right? I’ve never docked, still only crew, and I’m scared to death and excited about this adventure in my life. Of course, I’ve only been on the boat to start to set things up last weekend and noticed that the decks are super slippery. Everyone always says, there are “a million little things that can go wrong.” I hope that’s hyperbole. I’m not so daunted by the deck as it just seems like a laborious task I was not expecting, maybe I’ll find some Zen in the project, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if they needed any special tools along the way as I build up my toolbox. I’ve got all the usual suspects, but do you all have any advice? Some tool you desperately needed that wasn’t there for you when you needed it? Anything you noticed wearing out sooner than one would expect? Thank you! This is my first time asking questions about boats online!
Congratulations!! I added a 12 v wheel grinder which I can charge through my house battery. I bought it for emergencies, broken mast etc instead of wire cutters, however I used it already 3 times. Great tool to have.
Congratulations. You will love the boat.
I carry a full set of tools including a 12v drill and bits, but I suggest the following minimum set (in addition to whatever tools your engine came with)
– socket sets, SAE and Metric, regular and deep headed (really 4 separate sets)
– set of screwdrivers, phillips-head and flat-head
– set of allen keys
– 10-12″ adjustable crescent wrench
– small to medium sized vice grip
– needle nosed pliers
– wire stripping/cutting/crimping tool
– nut driver that fits on hose clamps
– small hammer
– utility knife
– metal putty knife/scraper
hi To, I have hull number 14 but I don’t have a boom vang. I don’t really understand it, my C and C had a kicker. Do you have a boom vang on your boat?
Thanks
Harald, seabiscuit
Hi Harald, Yah I have a hall quick vang. There are others that allow you to remove your topping lift and eliminate chafe on your mainsail leech as well as control twist in the main. I also recommend a preventer especially offshore. Warren
Hi all, I own hull number 27 sailing on Lake Michigan. I have owned my boat for going on three years now. Very happy with the Pearson 36-2.
Just completed the Hook Race two weeks ago and placed first in the cruising section. Lots of heavy weather. Experienced winds up over 60kts. Boat handled it all fairly well with a single reef in the main and a little bit of the head sail furled up. Was my first long trip in the boat and also first time in storms of that magnitude being at the helm of my own boat. Granted, we did break a few things (sails, wind indicator, rub-rail) but structurally the boat handled all that was thrown at it.
Tom Wayne, looks like I am going to get a chance to tackle that rub rail project as well. Thanks for the detailed article. I hope upgrade to aluminum toe rail as you mentioned. What were the issues you had finding one that would work?
Stephen,
As the deck to hull flange is outward, the bolts that hold the joint together are obviously visible around the outside of the boat. As I recall, i was unable to find an aluminum rail that was wide enough on the top to receive the bolts, and tall enough on the side to cover the bottom of the bolts and nuts beneath the joint. The replacement rail that D&R Marine sells is 2″ x 2″. Here is a link to the page where it can be ordered for $475 per side. I spent a significant amount of time trying to find an L shaped aluminum rail that was 2″ x 2″. Most are much smaller than that. The issue is especially problematic for the top of the rail, as there are so many bolt heads that would have to penetrate through the rail. They line up pretty close to the center of the 2″ top of the rail, and the bolt heads are sizable, so you don’t have a lot of room to work with. Perhaps a 1 3/4″ rail might work, but i didn’t find anything even remotely close to what i needed to do the job in a way that would look good, so i opted to go with the original rail. It was a difficult job because 40′ of that stuff is hard to handle, especially when trying to bed it in a sticky compound. That said, i am glad i did it. The boat looks great and i have been able to protect the new rail pretty well. I have a few scuffs in it but nothing significant, and most weren’t made by me. Good luck!
https://www.drmarine.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DR1012R%2D38
We have hull number 14 and we don’t have a boom vang. Does anybody have a boom vang?
I have a Schaefer 35-13 4:1 vang soft vang. There is a bail under the boom, and a tang on the mast. The Schaefer and Rigrite links below will show you what i have. The vang can also be used as a preventer when sailing downwind.
That said, I would recommend skipping the soft vang and going with a rigid vang, so you can support the boom without a boom topping lift. It also gives you better purchase for adjustment. I can’t imagine sailing without a vang. It is nearly impossible to get any sail shape in the main at all, unless you are beating and have the main sheet all the way in. As soon as you crack that sheet, the leech must open right up. You are losing a ton of performance.
https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Isomat_Spars/isomat_vang%20brackets.php
https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=145_168&products_id=3511&zenid=o21jcop6ukfusk5rugduuon7a7
Tom,
Thanks for the response. My thought was to use the replacement rubrail from D&R Marine and then mount an aluminum toerail on top of that. Kind of like you did with the t-track. I would also like to mount a midship chock like you did. Just not sure how I would incorporate that into an aluminum toerail. Still need to do some more research and walking of the docks to see what else is out there.
On a side note, I received the email to allow notifications when new comments are posted, but the links don’t seem to work. Any idea how else I can enable the email notifications?
Harald,
I have a Garhauer rigid vang on my boat. In looking at other items that came with the boat, it appears that this replaced a traditional vang.
Tom,
Disregard my question regarding the notifications. Used a different email and the links worked. Had to use them in a webmail application. It appears that Outlook for some reason will not let me follow the links.
Stephen – you could cut the aluminum rail to put the chock in. The aluminum could be cut, rounded, sanded down….
Tom,
I have run into a bit of a problem with the rub rail. Was wondering if you had any pieces left from your project. Contacted DR Marine and they currently have none in stock and may no longer offer it due to cost of shipping. So, I may have to replace just the broken area, which is not optimal, but cosmetically would be better than a big broken chunk. Feel free to email me directly.
Steve
sgancarz@ymail.com
Just wanted to post an update on the rub rail situation. DR Marine has indeed decided to stop selling the rub rail. However, if anyone is in need of new rub rail, the manufacturer has just completed a run of 1,000 feet. So it is now available again directly from them! Contact Mark at Integrity Marine Corp. Their number is (508)505-4001. The part number is R1073.
Steve
Good information. Do you think that this will be a reliable source going forward or was it a one time extrusion? Hopefully it is a reliable source as i am sure there is still a market for the rail. The problem is the cost of shipping.
I think this should be a reliable source, as Integrity marine is a subsidiary of Barbour Plastics, one of the largest suppliers of rubrail to boat manufacturers in the US for the past 35 years.
hi- i am considering purchasing a Pearson 36-2 and found these above discussions very useful. I have a Pearson 10M now and feel very confident in its sailing performance in 40+ knot wind and 8+ feet seas. I noticed the 36-2 has a flatter hull (so-called canoe bottom) than my 10M which slopes more gently into the fin keel. Does the 36-2 hull pound in going windward in heavy wind and seas ? BTW, i primarily sail in Buzzards Bay and Cape and the Islands.
Also notice the holding tank is in the bottom of the port cockpit locker. Given all the equipment that may be placed in there, this seems like a disaster waiting to happen. Any concerns about this ?
Also – how well does the 36-2 sail under main alone in, eg, 10 knots of wind on a reach. My 10M barely moves.
Finally – does the standard engine drive the boat at hull speed in calm waters at reasonable rpms.
Thanks for any help.
Hi Paul, Narragansett Bay here hull #114. Boat is stiff, close winded. Doesn’t hobby horse because engine is forward. Enough engine sink gets hot because of placement. Hull sits flat on mooring sails well in any wind above 7 or 8 knots. But good sails. I have carbon Doyle’s stack pack. You can race and be competitive and cruise in comfort. Suggest a yanmar report and folding prop. 10M s good boat. This one is faster and is rugged.
Paul – take a look at the “Projects” tab and you should find some other helpful info about the boat from the project writeups. I have the full keel version and I find that the boat is a little tender. I find myself reefing (either the main or rolling in part of the genoa) in any thing over about 15 kts. The boat sails well in heavy air with sail area reduced. I have not experienced pounding going to wind, but to be honest i typically plan my trips so that i am facing the other direction when it blows! We get some rough weather on Lake Erie (a very shallow lake). I think that the center placement of the engine under the galley helps balance the boat well (and its great for access to the engine). The boat will sail OK under main alone as long as you are not trying to point. The original location for the holding tank on my boat (a 1985 model) was in a compartment amidships beneath the aft cabin bunk (it was a bladder). I installed a holding tank in the port locker just aft of the head. I built a marine plywood box and set the tank in the box. I had the tank custom built with an inspection port on the top. When i pump out i can put a hose right in the top of the tank. It is really nice for winter layup, as i can get it clean and dry and even shopvac it out. That locker is huge, so there is plenty of room around the tank box for everything that gets tossed down into the locker, and the box adequately protects the holding tank. As far as motoring – my boat has the 3HM35F with a fixed two bladed prop and the boat motors exceptionally well. I can move along at 6.6kts at about 2,000 rpm. If i push it up a bit i can get a tad over 7kts, but 1900 -2000 is the sweet spot. Some day i will put a maxprop on but there have always been other things to spend the $ on. Hope this helps.
Tom and Warren – thank you very much for your helpful comments. I am seriously interested in a P36-2. The one i looked at had some play in the spade rudder – and since the connection thru the hull is below the water line, i assume it must leak a little into the hull. Does the staff for the rudder go thru a stuffing box fitting like my skeg mounted rudder on my P 10M ? How much play is permissible at the fitting – this seemed like 1/8 or so inch.
Also I assume the pole from the galley to the roof is to provide tension on the traveler on the coach roof. Any problems with the traveler putting to much force on the cabin roof ?
Any potential problems i need to examine in particular during a survey ?
thank you
I am not sure why you are feeling play in the rudder. The tube that the rudder post sits in has a Thordon bearing in it and the fit is pretty snug. The bearing is at least 8” long as I recall, and it sits right at the bottom of the tube (held in place with a couple of small screws that you teach from the bottom). The bottom of the rudder tube is actually above the water by a few inches. I’m not suggesting that it doesn’t get wet but when the boat is sitting still in calm water it is several inches out of the water. The rudder post passes through the tube and up into the boat. The quadrant is bolted to the rudder post. I will look and see if I have any photos. I had a Pearson 31 before this boat and the rudder post on that boat was essentially skeg mounted (it’s bottoms bearing was a skeg). That rudder had lots of play and keeping that bearing tight was difficult. On my 36-2 the rudder has no discernible play in it. You should check to make sure that the play isn’t in the rudder itself. They have a history of delamination (see my article on the bottom job). I would assume that if that got bad enough the rudder would become loose on its shaft. As for the traveler, I have never liked the design of the traveler bolted to the sea hood. I’d like to mount a nee traveler on pillars that are through bolted to the cabin top. That said I’ve loaded mine up pretty good on several occasions without any issues. The pole that you are talking about I believe provides deck support for downward forces from above. There is a tie down from the mast to the mast collar that provides counter forces to the action of the shrouds and mast on the hull and deck. I actually moved mine to create a permanent connection between the mast step and the mast collar so I can pull the mast without the difficult task of disconnecting the original tie down. Hope this helps. If I can find pics of the quadrant area I will let you know.
Tom – thank you very much for this helpful information. A pic of the rudder bearing would be appreciated if not too much trouble. How do you access the bearing ? Thru the port cockpit locker ? Buying older boats is always challenging. More later probably.
Paul,
I found a few pics of the top of the rudder post taken from inside the boat, showing the quadrant and the structure inside the boat. I am not sure how to attach them to this chat, but if you send me an email at twynne@11interlake-steamship.com I will reply with the photos. The bottom of the rudder tube is accessed from outside/beneath the boat and that is where the Thordon bearing slips in. The top of the tube is directly beneath the helm seat, and is accessed through the port cockpit locker. The tube is fairly long. My boat is wrapped up for the winter so i can’t measure it for you, but i will bet that it is at least 10″ long. Again – it is hard to imagine how the play would be from something related to the rudder post tube. It seems to me like the more likely culprit is above or below the tube. If the boat is out of the water and there is no visible delamination of the rudder or movement of the rudder on the rudder post/structure, then it may be that the quadrant is loose or the steering cables are loose inside the boat (the quadrant bolts onto the rudder post, and is driven by a typical Edson wire to chain steering system. If components of that system are not aligned or properly tightened I would expect that you would have play in the system.
twynne@interlake-steamship.com
not sure where the “11” typo came from
Rub Rail Shipping
Tom, missed your comment back in October regarding shipping of the rub rail. Actually shipping was very reasonable. They have a much better relationship with the shippers and probably have a much higher volume than DR Marine for large items like this.
Shipping for my order was only $150.00 to Racine, WI. DR Marine was quoting me up to $800.00. Also my first shipment was damaged, so I suggested they not try shipping in cardboard tubes taped together, but rather use PVC piping glued together. Second time around all was good and that is now their primary means of packaging.
Tom,
Would love to see some pictures of how you modified the tiedown for the deck. I take my mast down every year, and I have to disconnect it from the mast every time. I’m sure eventually the holes in the mast will become stripped out. Also hate having that rod hanging down into the cabin. It seems no matter what I do, I end up hitting my head on it. This year I finally taped it up with some padding to keep from cutting my head on it.
Send me your email address and I will send you some pics. Mine is twynne@interlake-steamship.com
Hi Tom, Herr we go. Cheers Warren
Hi Tom, can you send me the picture of the tiedown too please. My e mail is
harald@davenportcatering.com
Thanks
Harald, Seabiscuit
Hi There,
My wife and I are in the middle of the purchase process for a 1986 P36-2 and we are very excited. I’ve been reading a bit about swing keel/cb maintenance, but everything I could find was about Catalina 22’s. Can anyone on here let me know how extensive the maintenance has been on the 36-2? My main concern is that I hear stories of keels breaking from their cables and either falling to the bottom of the ocean or cracking a home in the hull… Assuming I do proper maintenance and maybe some happens anyway, what are the odds of this sort of outcome?
Thank you!
Congratulations, we have hull number 14 and love the boat. I haven’t found anybody about the centre board maintenance or know anybody who had a problem with it. The manual just says when the cable breaks, replace it. There must be a stop on the centre board when the cable breaks, ifnot the boat builder would be liable . At the worst you still have a 4.5 keel.
Good Morning All, I bought our 36-2 cb , hull 135, this spring, sailed (mostly motored) her from Annapolis to Bar Harbor this summer. One of the concerns from the survey did show the cb pennant frayed at the fitting on the board. Rather than chance it or wait until it broke I had it replaced in the yard there. Some people have used Dyneema as a replacement but although it’s as strong if not stronger than ss wire, it can definitely chafe much easier than ss so I stuck with the wire. My cb winch is probably in need of a rebuild or replacement this winter and will probably attack the sheaves at the same time. Other than that, having a 36 footer with only a little over 4 ft of draft, and sails as well as she does, is a beautiful thing.
does anybody have any experience with a floppy center board and very hard to bring the board up?
Harald, my cb is also very hard to bring up, which is why I’m going to inspect/rebuild/replace the winch and same for the sheaves. I’m particularly suspect of the final sheave as I’m sure it probably gets wet and internal corrosion could be the problem. The board does move a little and make some noise, but I think that’s to be expected from any cb. If you consider it’s size, and not counting the cable, it’s only attached to the boat at one point.
I can see making some noise but my cb moves inches each side. It seams that the last few inches are really hard to get up. Our boat in in Newfoundland now until next spring so if you have made some repairs before, any info would we great.
Thanks
Harald
Has anybody done any maintenance work on the Center board of the Pearson 36-2?
Pearson 36-2
Leaking keel bolt(s)?
Does anyone have torque specs?
Much appreciated.
Would love to get the torque specs as well. Noticed some movement in my keel at haul out this year. Time to re-torque all of the keel bolts.
Jim/Steve,
Several years ago Dave Nance (s/v Ariel – P36-2) answered this same question posed by the owner of a Pearson 34 on SailboatOwner’s forum. Dave answered as follows:
With the keel supported: 3/4 inch bolts 125 lb. ft.; 1 inch bolts 280 lb. ft.
Three years ago I separated my keel from my hull by lifting the hull with multiple jack stands. I cleaned up the joint, re-bed the keel, added backing plates in the bilge (my problem and possibly yours was that the flimsy washers on the bolts were being drawn down into the holes providing slack/slop and leaking) and tightened everything up. I didn’t use a torque wrench, and instead simply tightened things up as much as I could. Problem solved.
At some point I will get around to writing up the project and posting it here.
Thanks Tom,
Finished winterizing today. Measured bolts with a caliper, 1 inch for sure. I like the backing plate idea. Would love to read about that jacking project when you get a chance to post. For now I will try some beefy washers and re-torque.
Thanks a bunch
Jim
Hi, does anybody have rigging specs for the 36-2 and any info on center board repair and maintenance
All 36-2 owners FYI.
I was inspecting my chain plates and turnbuckles on the standing rigging and found the bracket for the Backstay to be cracked in two locations. My boat is a 1986, I haven’t had long so I do not have any history of her. It will need to be reformed and welded back together.
I suggest everyone take a look at theirs.
I don’t know how to post pictures on this site but am willing to send them to you.
Thanks
Jim
jimdimitri68@gmail.com
Does anybody have specs for rigging tensions for a 36-2
To fellow P36-2 owners 1989 hull #177 experienced a hard grounding in the surf some years ago bent rudder shaft had new rudder fabricated by CSI composit solutions inc near Boston. New bearings steering disc, shives,baseplate,cables.original baseplate was 1/4 steal check for corrosion Edson replacement is now1/2 aluminum much more robust. One of the rudder bearings was still in placed I used a steal pipe machined to the correct dia. To align the new bearings. The top of the rudder was covered by plastic plate that allows water to enter rudder,replaced with beckson plate.
Would you be able to send some pictures.
I have looked down the access cover for the rudder under the helm seat. Mine has water. Would like to clean inspect and service. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
CB update: So this December I was fortunate enough to have the yard bring her inside the shop to address the cb issue. Of course this required a bit of head scratching but to spare you the long version, we raised the boat as high as possible inside the shop, located and removed the pin, and dropped the cb out. Since he was not about to cut a hole in his shop floor, the board had to come out horizontally rather than vertically. Although bronze, it was still corroded (38 years in salt water will do that), and was fused to the bushings in which it should have been able to turn. We replaced the pin and bushings and realigned it so would, in theory, travel up and down in a straight line as opposed to dragging to one side of the keel pocket. We also disassembled the cable system to remove and inspect the sheaves. We cut the bottom one open and were surprised to find it in surprisingly good shape. There was however evidence that the cable was not riding on the wheel but between the wheel and the side wall of the sheave box. When we reassembled the sheave box we made sure there was enough clearance for the wheel to turn but not enough to allow the cable to get between the wheel and the box wall again. Last thing was to replace the crappy deck organizer on the cabin top that the cable ran thru to make the turn from the upper most sheave and going to the winch. I ordered a double stack cheek block out of stainless to handle the serious amount of load that was being placed on this turn. The deck organizer, which I hope was not installed at the factory, should never have been used for this job. She hasn’t been in the water yet, but I was able to lower and retract the cb on the hard completely and expect that once in the water, it should be even easier. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not like one finger power steering on the ’72 Olds 98 my dad had, but I was able to bring it up with only one arm on the winch. Happy to send photos if anyone in interested.
Hi, thank you for the update. I have my board currently removed and will install in the spring. We are in Ontario and our boat is in Newfoundland. Can you please send me some pictures of the new deck organizer and anything else you have. We have hull number 14.
Thank you
Harald, Seabiscuit
Hi, thank you for the update. I have my board currently removed and will install in the spring. We are in Ontario and our boat is in Newfoundland. Can you please send me some pictures of the new deck organizer and anything else you have. We have hull number 14.
Where is your boat?
Thank you
Harald, Seabiscuit
Hi Harald,
Um, dare I ask what she’s doing in Newfoundland? Happy to share pics, but doesn’t seem to be a way to do it here. Are you on Facebook? There’s a Pearson Yachts FB group you could join which I have posted to including some photos. I have more than just what’s there I can share with you there. If you’re not on FB, I guess I can share to your email.
Currently, she’s on the hard in Trenton, Maine, hull #135 and I sail out of Bar Harbor, Maine.
(She’s getting a new name, which I cannot publicly disclose until after the naming ceremony, lest I piss off Neptune!)
Jeff
If you can sent me some pictures that would be great.
Thanks
I’ll try to put up a shared album, but if that doesn’t work I’ll need your email address since there’s no way to post pics on here.
Harald (and anyone else that may be interested),
Here is a link to photos at various stages of the cb getting a new pin and bushings, the sheave box open for inspection, the cable route on the coach roof. The grey sheave with 4 wheels is the old 4 wheel deck organizer that I replaced with the double stack cheek block and the side by side organizer.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aqB9LHjv5eGupLeGA